Cape Town is gorgeous, complicated, violent and misunderstood. A beautiful (the MOST beautiful) city in the world, and quite possibly the most divided as well. It regularly tops the list of "best travel destinations" and other similar lists, yet cross the line into the Cape Flats are you'll be presented with unimaginable violence and deprivation. The murder rate in this city, South Africa's worst, is 12th worst in the world. Almost 9 people die, every day, from homicides. Hundreds of thousands of people live in tin shacks, on sandy soil with no running water.
Yet drive 20 minutes to the Atlantic seaboard, where cafes with crypto bros and models abound, hang gliders soar above tourists' heads and foreign money helps inflate a gigantic property bubble. This was the dichotomous environment I found myself in when I began this project in 2016, and in some ways still do. I hope you find the project as interesting, impactful, and painful as I have.
MASIPHUMELELE / LAKE MICHELLE
The Southern Cape Peninsula, about 20km from Cape Town’s city center, is comprised of several idyllic, picturesque suburbs such as Noordhoek, Kommetjie, and Fish Hoek. Horse riding tours are common on nearby Long Beach. Surfing is a popular pastime.
Sandwiched within the “Sun Valley” communities is Masiphumelele. There are approximately 38000 people living there, many in small tin shacks. There is no police station, only one small day clinic, and it’s estimated that up to 35% of the population is infected with HIV or TB. Fires are common in winter, which sweep through the shacks, sometimes displacing residents by the hundreds.
Across a narrow wetlands, the community of Lake Michelle is surrounded by an electrified fence and accessed through a guardhouse. Current prices on real estate sites put their value at several million rands. On the day I flew overhead, several people paddle-boarded in the choppy lake waters. I see the wetlands between them as a sort of no-man’s land; an area too scary to venture into from either side. I imagine both sides peer across at their neighbors with distrust and suspicion.
Hout Bay / Imizamo Yethu
Hout Bay is a picturesque valley about 15km south of Cape Town, situated between several mountains. There is a protected harbor at one end of the valley, which is one of the busiest fishing harbors in the Western Cape, along with several wealthy housing estates, hotels, and small farms.
Nestled between two of these affluent housing estates is the suburb of Imizamo Yethu. Imizamo Yethu (IY) is comprised of both a designated housing area and an “informal settlement” area, which is largely comprised of small shack dwellings which stretch up the steep slopes of the mountain behind it.
The shacks in this informal settlement reach right to the very edge of the demarcated area, in a densely packed jumble of tin roofs. In fact, even though the total area of IY is much smaller than the whole Hout Bay valley, the two have roughly the same population, 15538 vs. 17329. (City of Cape Town Census 2011)
The striking visual dissimilarities between the richer estate to the north, Tierboskloof, and IY are immediately apparent when viewed from the air. The line of trees which divides the two hides (several) heavily fortified fences, and many distrustful neighbors. In some cases, the houses (some with swimming pools) are just a stone’s throw from the shacks.
The most striking thing to me is the number of trees in Tierboskloof, versus the almost treeless IY. On the day I flew overhead, it was scorchingly hot, almost reaching 30 degrees. I imagined that the temperatures underneath the tin roofs must have been stifling.
Nestled between two of these affluent housing estates is the suburb of Imizamo Yethu. Imizamo Yethu (IY) is comprised of both a designated housing area and an “informal settlement” area, which is largely comprised of small shack dwellings which stretch up the steep slopes of the mountain behind it.
The shacks in this informal settlement reach right to the very edge of the demarcated area, in a densely packed jumble of tin roofs. In fact, even though the total area of IY is much smaller than the whole Hout Bay valley, the two have roughly the same population, 15538 vs. 17329. (City of Cape Town Census 2011)
The striking visual dissimilarities between the richer estate to the north, Tierboskloof, and IY are immediately apparent when viewed from the air. The line of trees which divides the two hides (several) heavily fortified fences, and many distrustful neighbors. In some cases, the houses (some with swimming pools) are just a stone’s throw from the shacks.
The most striking thing to me is the number of trees in Tierboskloof, versus the almost treeless IY. On the day I flew overhead, it was scorchingly hot, almost reaching 30 degrees. I imagined that the temperatures underneath the tin roofs must have been stifling.
The Cape Flats
The Cape Flats, a sprawling area to the east of Cape Town, is a poignant reflection of the country's historic struggle with racial segregation and socio-economic inequality. The Flats were a creation of apartheid's brutal policies; a vast, sandy stretch designated as a residential area for non-whites during the mid-20th century following their forced removal from Cape Town's urban core.
Today, the area is a vibrant and diverse community, home to Coloured, Black African, and immigrant populations. However, the legacy of apartheid continues to manifest in profound socio-economic disparities. In contrast to the stunning affluence of areas like Clifton or Camps Bay, the Cape Flats are marked by high levels of poverty, unemployment, and crime.
Inadequate infrastructure, lack of opportunities, and an epidemic of gang violence are stark reminders of the systemic inequality rooted in historic injustice. Despite these challenges, residents exhibit incredible resilience, maintaining strong communities and pushing for change.
Stellenbosch / Kayamandi
District Six
District Six was named the Sixth Municipal District of Cape Town in 1867. Originally established as a mixed community of freed slaves, merchants, artisans, laborers and immigrants, it was a vibrant center with close links to the city and the port. By the beginning of the twentieth century, however, the process of removals and marginalization had begun.
The first to be forced out were black South Africans who were displaced from the District in 1901. As the more prosperous moved away to the suburbs, the area became a neglected ward of the city.
On 11 February 1966 it was declared a white area under the Group Areas Act of 1950, and by 1982, the life of the community was over. More than 60 000 people were forcibly removed to barren outlying areas aptly known as the Cape Flats, and their houses in District Six were flattened by bulldozers.